My Love Affair with La Rioja

As we left the glittering coastline of San Sebastián, with its symphony of laughter from tapas bars, the sea breeze laced with salt and the scent of grilled anchovies, and the culinary delights of Michelin-starred dining experiences that left us very full, something inside me shifted. We were trading the ocean’s rhythm for the heartbeat of the land.  I didn’t know it yet, but I was on my way to meet a love I had been dreaming about for years: La Rioja!

It had been nine years since I’d first set foot in Spain, but not in La Rioja. The memories of that trip never faded, the taste of wine lingered on my lips, and the warmth of strangers made Spain feel like family.  Ever since, Spain had haunted me in the most beautiful way.  I had promised myself I would return, not just to Spain, but to La Rioja, the region that whispered to my soul through every glass of Rioja I’d ever tasted.

A Landscape That Breathes History

Driving into La Rioja felt like stepping through time.  The vineyards weren’t perfect; they were alive.  Unlike the manicured precision of Napa, Anderson Valley, or Paso Robles, where symmetry reigns, La Rioja’s vines were wild and untamed, curling over rocky hillsides like they had been placed there by fate.  The land bore scars from storms, seasons, and centuries, yet that made it even more beautiful.  It wasn’t curated; it was authentic!

The first sip of Rioja I took in this region was more than wine; it was a revelation.  It tasted of the earth, of patience, of people who don’t rush what deserves time.  There was spice, a trace of red fruit, a whisper of oak, but more than that, there was truth.  It felt like drinking the soul of a place that had been waiting for the arrival of wine lovers who genuinely care about how the magic arrives in the bottle.

The People Behind the Pour

In La Rioja, wine isn’t a business; it’s a heartbeat, their breath, their life, their everything! We met winemakers who invited us into their world not through polished tasting rooms, but through the back doors of their lives, kitchens, garages, and barrel rooms filled with laughter and the sweet scent of fermentation.  They didn’t talk about points or prestige; they spoke of the seasons, of hope, of how the land teaches you humility.

During harvest, they stopped everything to share their love for the grape with us, from tractors idling to hands stained with grapes, a glass, and a heartfelt story.  Some stories made me laugh, while others caught me off guard and left me emotional, but all of them made me fall even deeper in love with Spain.

Women of Grit and Grace

Elena Corzana was one of those stories that came to life. Her harvest team is comprised of family and friends. After harvest, she is a one-woman show, making wine in her garage, every single step of the way, from crushing grapes to bottling juice.  When she’s not making wine, she produces olive oil.  There’s no PR team, no corporate gloss, just Elena, her vines and olives, and a kind of devotion that can’t be taught.  Her passion moved me so profoundly that I invited myself to her next harvest, and she gladly accepted.  I’m already excited for harvest 2026.

Then there is Maite Fernández Mendoza of Abel Mendoza Monge, a force of nature with a sense of humor and flair, from her past corporate heels to her now stained hands.  She shared stories of living in other countries and her love for travel.  Now she lives by the weather and how it dictates life in a vineyard.  When I asked how she started winemaking, she smiled mischievously and said, “I married a winemaker.”  Then she leaned in and whispered, “But I own 51% of the company.”  We both laughed, our glasses clinking like old friends as we celebrated and supported strong women. Maite has no formal training, yet she has crafted Riojas that critics like James Suckling, Robert Parker, and Jancis Robinson, among many others, have all celebrated, proving that instinct and heart can outshine any degree or certificate.

Lessons in Generosity

At Conde de los Andes, I noticed a wine cage half-empty.  Curious, I asked if it was a poor harvest in 2016.  The guide smiled and said, “No, we sold what we needed to sell. What’s left is for us.” Workers, he explained, would come down to the cave after their day and share a bottle of wine.  I teased, “So you’re stingy with your wine and don't want to sell the rest?” He laughed, “Not stingy, just sentimental.  We sold to our distributors and restaurants, and we met our goal.  Sorry you missed the release; the rest is ours.” I understood completely, with a hint of jealousy.  Some vintages aren’t meant to be sold out completely; they’re meant to be shared among those who made them possible, and I respect that!  Later that day, he surprised me and proudly poured us a bottle of that very vintage. I guess he's not too stingy!

Next stop: Ramírez de Ganuza, owned by José Ramón Urtasun.  Exhausted from the harvest yet full of grace,  José joined our tasting as if greeting old friends.  He told stories of loss, growth, and legacy, recounting how the winery’s founder, Fernando Remírez de Ganuza, had passed away the year before, yet his spirit still filled every barrel and bottle. It was a humbling reminder that wine, like love and life, is both fragile and eternal.

The Harvest Celebration

As the last grapes were gathered and the air filled with the scent of crushed fruit, La Rioja transformed from quiet labor to jubilant celebration.  Harvest was complete, and with it came music, laughter, and the clinking of countless glasses raised in gratitude.  Locals and tourists filled the plazas, dancing to traditional songs, even if we didn't know the moves, while children chased each other around the celebration of wine.

Winemakers who had spent sleepless weeks in the vineyards, racing against rain, now rejoiced, toasting to another year of resilience and craft. I was fortunate enough to share in that joy and reunite with my dear friend Oscar, a native of Logroño, with whom I shared wine in the US when he came to pour! His warmth and humor made the celebration even more memorable.  Under the glow of string lights and the hum of Spanish guitars, we drank, we ate, we laughed, and we let the rhythm of La Rioja remind us that wine is more than a drink; it’s La Rioja's culture.

More Than Wine

These were just a few of the many bodegas we visited.  On this trip, we visited 11, and it still barely scratched the surface of La Rioja’s 500+ bodegas.  By the time I left La Rioja, my suitcase was heavier, but my heart was weightless.  Every vineyard, every glass, every conversation had deepened my connection to something far beyond taste; it was a sense of belonging.  La Rioja isn’t just a region; it’s a way of life. It’s dusty boots and purple-stained hands. It’s laughter echoing through stone caves. It’s a glass raised not to wealth or status, but to life itself.

Moreover, the Michelin-starred experience in San Sebastián and La Rioja was nothing short of extraordinary, a delicate balance between artistry and tradition.  Each dish felt like a story told on a plate, perfectly paired with local wines. If you want a Michelin-starred experience without the stuffy rules, please visit SVGAR (Laguardia). You won’t be disappointed; it's where the locals dine.

When you go to discover the "Heart of La Rioja"

When to Visit:

The best time to experience La Rioja is during harvest season (September–October) when the air smells of grapes and celebration fills the valleys. Spring (April–June) offers bright greenery and fewer crowds.

Where to Stay:

Stay in Haro or Laguardia, two charming towns surrounded by vineyards.  Both offer boutique hotels, cobblestone streets, and views that seem to be pulled straight from a painting.

Don’t Miss:

• 💪 Abel Mendoza Monge — Elegant, soulful wines guided by Maite Fernández Mendoza’s intuitive genius.

• 🍇 Ramírez de Ganuza — A winery of legacy and precision, producing some of the most respected Riojas in Spain.

• 🏺 Conde de los Andes — Explore centuries-old caves that breathe history and humility.

• 💃 Elena Corzana Wines — Proof that one woman, a garage, and pure heart can create something unforgettable.

  
  

Insider Tip: Book tastings directly with the wineries and plan to spend some time lingering.  Conversations over a shared glass often become the most meaningful moments of your trip.

Need help planning? To ensure a seamless trip, don’t hesitate to get in touch with Brenna at brenna@olivettetravel.com.  Brenna and David de Yzaguirre at david@deyzaguirre.com will help you map out winery visits, secure those hard-to-get tastings, and pair them with the best restaurants in San Sebastián and La Rioja, or any Spanish destination, so all you have to do is arrive, taste, and fall in love with the region, just like I did.

La Rioja

Jeanine is a California-based jet-setting entrepreneur with a passion for wine, travel, family, and fun. A retired Sergeant (LASD) and newly retired flight attendant (Skywest) swapped her wings for a passport full of winery stamps! She blends her love for discovering hidden gem wineries from California to Europe! She brings a vibrant, down-to-earth perspective to everything she touches.